A tale of two Sundays

Carol is still weak and elects to remain in the room to regain her strength.  CJ decides to return to his youth and take a good old-fashioned street car ride.  New Orleans has the same street cars (trolleys) as they had in Pittsburgh during the 50's and 60's.

 

Of the numerous NOLO routes he elects the one crossing the Garden District down St. Charles St. It's likely the most interesting and picturesque route.  It runs through Lee Circle only a block from the WWII Museum, through a number of small commercial neighborhoods of restaurants and small businesses before entering a long stretch of beautiful mansions, quaint small homes, and churches.

 

 

 

At the far end the three attractions are Tulane University, Loyola University and the huge Audubon Park. Under better circumstances we'd be out hiking Audubon Park.  It's a 350 acre park that extends all the way to the Mississippi River and includes an 18-hole golf course, two mile walking track and zoo. From the trolley it looks like a great area to explore.

For some reason, CJ's trolley doesn't go all the way to the end of the line but turns back to the city shortly after passing the park and universities.

 

Exiting the trolley back at the foot of Bourbon St. CJ once again walks the French Quarter. There is significant river traffic today. and the usual craziness in Jackson Square and along Bourbon St.

 

 

 

 

 

Carol finally ventures out for dinner where we're one evening late for the entertainment. From CJ's window seat he can see the burned out hulk of the car that caught fire during last evening's dinner service. The restaurant had to evacuated diners from the room we're in and close the pocket doors for safety.

This evening's dinner at R'Evolution begins with a crispy sweetbreads appetizer.  Carol has a redfish and crawfish Napoleon, crawfish boulette in an oyster stew.  Both delicious.

 

Decades ago Chef Roberta Donna served us the best single sea scallop we've ever eaten.  Tonight the sea scallop and foie gras dish erases the magnificent memory of that scallop of long ago.

 The wine list in this place was amazing; and with amazing prices. The cellar leaves no world class wine unexplored and some in vertical's never before seen on a restaurant wine list. At these prices the poor folk have to drink wine by the very expensive glass and sip slowly.

The return walk takes us back down Bourbon St. by evening and to the Roosevelt Hotel Christmas display.

 

A tale of two days

It's a tale of two days. A bug hit Carol overnight and she's spent the day in bed. CJ went for a long walk of exploration in the morning. He located Lafayette Square, fooled around on the banks of the Mississippi, and found the gingerbread creation in Harrah's Hotel (after transiting the entire casino).

 

 

After returning to check on Carol, he criss crossed the French Quarter for a couple of hours in the afternoon finally finding a place for lunch at 3pm.

New Orleans is a one of a kind place.  The streets are overflowing with people walking about with drinks in hand.  There are strange people wearing strange costumes throughout the Quarter.  And the weddings; aah the weddings.  Apparently (since CJ observed it five times) the tradition here is after the ceremony, the bride and groom take to strutting the streets followed by a traditional jazz street band (there are dozens of them about) with the guests in trail. And by the way, just how do they tie up the street?  With an escort of one or more motorcycle cops from New Orleans finest, of course.

Jackson Square is abuzz with artists, street performers, bands and more wedding parties not to mention the tourists and strolling locals.

Bourbon St. has to me the most unique street in the world. It's classic trash.  It's Sodom and Gomorra meets any street outside a navy base in the 1950's. It's Hustler magazine meets assembly line frozen drink dispensers. It's neon light heaven meets wall to wall music; good and not so good. It's unlike anything else.

 

 

After finding an hours long line at the Acme Oyster House (real name no shot), CJ finally finds a restaurant with crawfish etouffee for lunch. On his return to the hotel the line at Acme is even longer; and it's 4pm.

He walks to Lafayette Park after dark for a light show. We didn't know that they only project them on the hour.  He arrives as one is ending.

 

 

 

 

A bowl of gumbo on Bourbon St. serves as dinner. The drinks have come out to play.  CJ retreats to the hotel where at some point the sound of cannon fire turns out to be fireworks over Jackson Square.

Cold and Clear in NOLO

Unseasonably cold temps drive us indoors. We begin the day at the National WWII Museum and spend most of the day there. To properly see it would take two or three days. This is a museum that exceeds expectations. Exhibits and videos are top shelf and the Tom Hanks narrated movie is incredible. To call it a tear jerker is an understatement.  A young lady in her twenties is the supervisor of the exhibit and starts and stops the movie.  She must view it a number of times a day and many times a week.  Even she is tear'd up at the conclusion.

 

 

 

 

The restaurant at the museum is both unusual and very good; and, who ever heard of a full bar at a museum restaurant. If only we didn't die when the torpedo our submarine fired ran a circular route and sunk us. Those are a spinach and artichoke toasted cheese sandwich and crawfish and Andouille fritters.  The appetizer and sandwich were more than the two of us could finish.



In need of a coffee when we departed, where does one go for coffee in New Orleans but the iconic Café du Monde. Coffee and beignets at one of the few open tables.  The good news is that tables turn quickly when the only thing you're doing is knocking down a small coffee and showering yourself with powdered sugar.

We explore the French Market and surrounds before stopping by the disappointing Crescent Brewing.

 

Our intention is to have dinner at the Acme Oyster House about four blocks away but the line is untenable so we backtrack to the Redfish Grill again. Carol has an excellent grilled fish and CJ and excellent jambalaya. Unfortunately Carol's not feeling well and most of the fish goes uneaten.

 

New Orleans Cuisine Renewed

The wind and temperature in New Orleans (NOLO) are bone chilling as our lack of vacation weather bad luck continues; then again the polar express is descending upon all of North America.  There's only one thing to do under such circumstances in NOLO; eat, dine, stuff thy face, gorge thyself on incredible food!

Our hotel is located one block from the French Quarter. A short three block walk across Canal St. on the way to Acme Oyster House, we find an alternative from the wind and further walking for Carol's cetaceous foot; the Redfish Grill. It's a fine beginning to a week of NOLO gluttony. Warm soup and a gumbo are a great appetizer.

We have two versions of the New Orleans Po Boy for lunch.  CJ has a fried oyster with a blue cheese dressing and Carol a shrimp.  Both are delicious.

 

Our dinner program begins at the top and can only go downhill from here.  We've not been to Susan Spicer's Bayona in many years. Carol orders a quail salad as something lite before her main.  Does this look like light or a full meal?

The sweetbreads are magnificent and we have two of the more intriguing cocktails of all time.

Next Stop: New Orleans on Dec 8

It's time to head home for a week before once again venturing out.  See you in New Orleans on the eighth.

Cheers

Trains, beer and Taka

Its a beautiful day! Finally.  CJ's begins the day with a long walk along San Diego's wonderful waterfront promenade. When did that kissing statue show up next to the Midway.

Balboa Park is a place of many surprises.  The topography is laced with ravines.  Previously we've been to the zoo but today's visit takes us to the original buildings.

 

 It appears Carol is dressed in the color of the day.  And what do you think about this color coordinated poster with her name?

 



The first stop is the San Diego Model Railroad museum.  This is a magical place run by local model railroad clubs.  One of the more extensive displays represents the real serpentine rise between Bakersfield and Mohave. It's a single circuit with three or more trains running on it.  Somehow these guys have managed to get multiple engines to pull over 30 cars at once. This circuit is so big it takes over an HOUR for a train to complete the entire run.

 

And there is one room after another of these displays.  All scales are represented.  After being disappointed by the display in Pittsburgh, this one made up for it.

After lunch at the historic restaurant in the complex, we're off to the Miramar area to sample craft beer.

 

AleSmith has a new tasting complex.  A knowledgeable fellow, Chris leads us through the menu. Can we possibly do another one after this.  The trick is to leave a lot of good beer sitting on the table.

 

Chris recommends Amplified Ale as our next stop.  One reason is that a new up and coming brewery, Pure Project, is located next door.

 

The trip couldn't possibly end without more sea urchin at Taka.